hair truths you didn't know you needed.
the hair edit with Mandi Zink Streeter of Base Hair Studio.
Meet Mandi Zink Streeter,
Mandi is a full time hair stylist and owner of Base Hair Studio. Well known for her blondes and color corrections, Mandi has been in the industry for over 22 years and has truly seen it all. I’ve been seeing Mandi for 10 years and on top of always providing the best services, she’s also such a good friend. I had the pleasure of getting my hair done this week and what a better way to spend the time than to collaborate on a Substack?
I can always count on Mandi to give it to me straight - feedback that going a certain color will take a few visits, we need to lay off the bleach, cutting it this way will be more flattering for my face shape, don’t listen to that tiktok, you should try this product instead, etc.
I asked Mandi about what hair truths she’s like to share, and boy did she deliver. Not only was I furiously jotting down notes for y’all but half of these I was like really?!? We probably should of just filmed our conversation since the other stylists and clients were also chiming in from across the salon, gameshow style. Plus, Mandi shares her must-have products across all hair categories - perfect timing to snag what you need while its the Sephora sale.
The hair truths you didn’t know you needed, let’s get into it!
general hair health,
Don’t go to bed with wet hair, ever. It causes serious breakage - when you toss and turn it snags and breaks and often causes you to have a dry, itchy scalp since the moisture on your pillow builds up.
Related to this, use a silk pillowcase! It helps both your skin and hair as you slide vs. snag. You can also use a silk bonnet for extra protection if you really want to level up your game.
Make sure you’re using a wide tooth comb or wet brush on wet hair.
Everyone should have a filter on their shower head! Aquabliss is my favorite (you can get on Amazon and it’s only $35). Make sure you change the filter once a month - it’s not a Brita, lol.
Getting your haircut every 8-10 weeks doesn’t make your hair grow faster. The only reason a stylist will tell you to cut it that often is if your hair is splitting (which you’d be able to see).
Use a nozzle on your hair dryer - it is a two-to-three inch buffer that protects your hair from the hot coils.
Stop getting hair tips from non-professionals on Tiktok. Remember, they are paid to sell you something. Just ask your stylist vs self-diagnosing your hair (especially products - don’t just use something because it seems like everyone on social media is). They can tell you if it’s good for your hair type, where you can get it or even order it for you.
Any weight loss can cause hair loss. Be aware of that and be upfront with your stylist on any new medications or diets you’re on, as it could effect how we style or apply color.
tools + styling,
Don’t buy your hair products on Amazon, always get them from a salon or reputable source (like Sephora). You’ll be guaranteed that they are fresh and haven’t been sitting in a warehouse for an unknown amount of time at an unknown temperature. Most professional brands don’t outsource and stylists have to sign contracts that products will only be sold in a salon - there’s a reason you have to have a license to buy and sell top brands.
Don’t flat iron or curl your hair after using a hair oil - oil is meant to go on before your blow dry or after you use heat to style. If you put it on at the same time, you’re basically frying the oil like you would in a pan.
Y’all may hate this one, but blow dry brushes are terrible for your hair (even the Dyson, *hides*). It’s like putting your hair on hot coils! If you can’t refrain, make sure your hair is 80-90% dry before using the attachments and I highly recommend doing your hair in sections. Do a section then do your mascara for example, so your hair has a second to cool down. These things heat up so fast!
let’s talk about shampoo + conditioner,
Purple shampoo does not make you blonder, it cuts out unwanted yellow tones on the lightest color of your hair. Be careful that you don’t use it too much or the contrast between your blonde pieces and brassy pieces will be stronger than intended.
In regards to shampoo, there is a big difference between needing moisture and needing repair. If your hair just needs moisture and you are over using a bonding shampoo, you can actually cause more damage. TBH, most people just need moisturizing shampoo.
Shampoo twice - your first shampoo removes the dirt, the second cleanses the hair.
Conditioner only goes mid-shaft to ends. If your hair is very coarse and dry, occasionally you can put it on your root and rinse thoroughly.
Shampooing with a scrub brush is awesome to help exfoliate, cleanse and stimulate hair growth.
You should rotate your shampoo and conditioner, as your hair gets used to your products. I cycle two different kinds (repair and moisture for example), just rotate when you shower.
coloring + greys,
Personally I’d say if you can avoid doing a base color when you start coloring greys, you should. Ask your stylist if you can camouflage/blend with highlights or lowlights before doing a base. Base coloring causes a harsh re-growth line and you’ll need a touch up much quicker in order to not hate your hair.
There’s no reason your stylist should use a permanent color on you unless they are covering your greys 100%. Semi/Demi hair color will fade out and make it much less damaging to change colors or update your look.
extensions,
Make sure if you’re inquiring about extensions that you go to a stylist that’s certified (and ask to see the certification, the hair, etc). Consultations are key, don’t skip them.
Hair extensions looking good are 50% stylist, 50% client. Half of the longevity is how they are installed, half is how well you take care of them at home.
Hair extensions are an expensive luxury service. If you can’t afford to get them and take care of them, don’t get them.
appointments + stylist relationships,
Bringing inspiration photos is key - show both what you like and what you don’t. Everyone sees color differently.
Trust your stylist if they give you feedback on said inspiration photos - remember that everyone’s hair is different, how you pull color is different, how your water effects your hair is different, how your hair grows out is different etc.
Honesty gets you the best results when you go to a new stylist. Also, if you don’t trust your stylist, you’re in the wrong chair.
You don’t have to come to your appointment with perfectly clean hair, especially if you have a sensitive scalp. Day 2-3 hair isn’t bad, but if it’s super greasy or full of products it does slow the color process down.
If you’re upset because you sat forever while your hair was processing and your stylist worked on other clients, it’s actually a good thing. As your hair color is processing you should avoid heat at all costs. If your stylist has you sit under a dryer for more than a few minutes, its a red flag!
When you are making an appointment, ask the stylist roughly how long you’ll be in. Stylists don’t want you to be rushed and doing your hair takes time (especially if you want a big change).
favorite products?
Shampoo & conditioner - Anything Milbon, specifically Milbon’s restorative shampoo. For volume, Amika’s big hit line.
Mouse - Amika plus size.
Detangler - Amika the wizard detangling hair primer.
Texturizing spray - For fine hair, Amika undone. For coarse hair, Milbon dry texturizing spray.
Hairspray - Bed Head masterpiece, a classic.
Root lifter - Milbon thickening mist, such a good thickening spray that also gives you a lift.
Hydrating serum - I’m obsessed with Mane Ivy’s hair elixir serum, its lighter than a oil so you can apply it on dry, clean hair to tame flyaways without a wet greasy look from oil. You can put this on before or after you blow dry too.
Scalp scrub brush - You can get these anywhere, but I love the color of Mane Ivy’s.
Curling products - Very much a personal preference, but I always suggest aiming for moisturizing products, like the TIGI curls amplifier or color WOW has good curl products.
Metal detox - I always suggest rotating in L’Oréal’s metal detox shampoo in your routine. It’s hydrating, clarifying and removes mineral buildup from products, pollution etc. which leaves hair feeling fresh, great for blondes.
Dry shampoo - If you skew super greasy, Drybar’s detox dry shampoo or Amika’s perk up. If you have drier hair, try Bed Head’s oh bee hive. Put dry shampoo in your hair after you blow dry clean hair, it helps oil from building up and will make your clean hair last longer.
Men’s hair products - Look for anything fiber based.
Hair ties - Silk scrunchies are the best.
Claw clips - Plastic is better for your hair vs. metal, as they are not as heavy so they pull less.
Hair towel - Having a real hair towel is great for your hair, as our typical bath towels are heavy and pull your delicate wet strands. I love Mane Ivy’s or Crown Affairs hair towels.
Shower filter - Aquabliss is great and cheap. Reminder, change the filter monthly!
Brushes - Wide tooth comb, wet brush, best daily brush (it’s worth it).
Blow dryer - BaByliss for sure.
Curling iron - Bio-Ionic is the best curling iron brand IMO.
Flat iron - Also BaByliss, my go-to!
Scalp treatment - Anything that’s a scrub with a scrub brush. I also love good ol’ castor oil mixed with coconut oil, put it on your roots and let it sit for ~10 min.
Product placement? Anything heat protectant, oils, creams = mid-shaft and down. Mouses, thickening sprays, and root lifters can go all over.
Hair growth supplements? Nutrafol is what I’ve heard works the best from clients, but no skin in the game on this one. I’d consult your dermatologist.
Base Hair Studio carries so many of Mandi’s favorite products, including the full Milbon, Amika and Mane Ivy lines. Pro-tip, the Many Ivy line smells sooo freaking good, like good enough that they made a candle and car air freshener that matches their product scents. A santal dream i’d say.
Base Hair Studio is located at 405 S Washington Ave #102, Royal Oak, MI 48067.
Mandi and her team are accepting new clients and are located in Royal Oak, MI. Follow them at @base.hairstuio and Mandi at @hairbymandizink if you’re in need of a new stylist!
Its Sephora sale time again, aka the perfect time to refresh your hair care routine as we go into the colder months. I know I’ll be stocking up on a few of the above products!
Hope you all have a wonderful weekend ahead. If you enjoyed this, subscribe and you’ll get my posts right on your Substack home feed or inbox. Here’s my last brain dump, if you want more.
Love this and you!! So glad we could do this.
Would love you to know this post definitely inspired a few new items on my Christmas list! So good, Em!